Saturday, March 9, 2019

TMB Day 8: Champex to Trient






Day Eight
July 24, 2018

Starting point: Champex, Switzerland
Ending point: Trient, Switzerland
Distance: 10 miles
Height gain: 3940 feet
High point: Fenetre d’Arpette (8743 feet)
Lunch: Picnic at Fenetre d’Arpette
Accommodation: Auberge Mont Blanc

This was by far the hardest day of the trek, even though every day had been truly hard.  We have to thank Mont Blanc (and Mother Nature) for keeping the impending storm at bay so that we could have the opportunity to reach the Fenetre d'Arpette (window into the glacier): the "highlight of the tour in every sense," a "true mountain pass," the "toughest of the whole route" -- honest words from Kev Reynolds, the writer of our guidebook.  Although we knew that it would be daunting, there was no way to fully prepare for what we were about to encounter.  This may also have been the most epic packed lunch, ever!


Friday, February 8, 2019

Ah-Ma's Taiwanese Sticky Rice ( 油飯 )


My Ah-Ma just turned 87 years old.  She lives independently and is a very determined woman.  She just got her knee replaced and she has dutifully done her therapy on her own and is back to chopping coconuts with her hammer and screwdriver.  In the summer of 2017, I made it a point to go and see her on my Fridays off, since those were the painful and lonely months leading up to her knee replacement.  On one of those visits, I asked her if she could teach me to make her delicious Taiwanese sticky rice (which we have always grown up calling 油飯 but may be more formally known as 糯米饭).  She was very happy that I asked, and she even walked a few blocks to Food 4 Less to get some ground meat, even though her knee was killing her.  I felt really badly because of that, but I knew that she was excited to do this because when I arrived, she already made a pot of piping hot plain sticky rice in her traditional rice steamer and she had pre-cut all of the ingredients and placed them in little bowls.  The dried shrimp was soaking and the ground meat was marinating.  It touched me to see this.  I always used to look forward to eating her sticky rice at family holiday gatherings, but it had been a while since she's made it because of her declining health.  Finally, I was going to learn the secret and revive this recipe!


It was really fun and she knew that I genuinely was there to learn.  She pointed out the bottles of spices and flavorings that she used and explained each one.  She didn't try to gloss over the information.  I asked lots of questions since I hadn't seen all of the prep work.  Also, I spotted a kabocha squash on her kitchen floor and asked if we could put some of that in, and she gladly allowed me to cut it up, laughing because she was surprised that I would remember that that was an option since she had only put kabocha in one time.


Overall, the recipe is straightforward, but as with making paella or risotto, getting the texture of the rice correct is the trickiest part.  The first time Ah-Ma showed me how to do it, she had pre-cooked a pot of glutinous rice in the rice cooker and separately stir-fried all of the other ingredients, then mixed it all together.  She says that this is sort of the lazy, foolproof way.  I used that method again three times for various potlucks and parties, and I still felt like I hadn't ever mastered it... something was always a little bit off.  A few days ago for Chinese New Year, I had the opportunity to make sticky rice again with Ah-Ma.  It is now a year and a half after she walked me through the process for the first time at her place.  She's standing up without a walker and still a pro in the kitchen, but her knee is still bothering her even though the scars from her surgery have lightened.  She also honestly seems less able to walk on stairs and more forgetful, but she still has that fiery spirit and can feel her way to making perfect sticky rice without any written recipe.  This time, she saw that we had a steamer and suggested that we try the other method...the less fool-proof method.


Also, Wes was able to be with us this time, and he took some wonderful photos of not only the finished product, but the process and the event.  He even stuck our Go Pro on the stove so that he could get photos of Ah-Ma schooling me (and us bickering, ha!).  Ah-Ma thought that it was so funny and weird that we kept taking pictures, but she played along.


So, I'm going to share this treasured recipe, including the two methods that it can be made!  I've been successful with both, but I think that I am still figuring out which one I like better, as they have their pros and cons.  I think there is also a third way: to cook the sticky rice directly in a heavy-bottomed pot.  So I'd have to try that in the future, too.  I might also try different kinds of glutinous rice to see if a shorter grain is preferable, since I have been using long grain glutinous rice... maybe I could soak it for less time...maybe try adding some garlic...anyway, it's something that one could easily obsess over!  As for Ah-Ma, she doesn't seem to prefer one method over the other, but she says that Method 2 is the "ancient" way.  I thought that that was a good thing, but that's open to interpretation.  You just have to try both and see for yourself.

Wednesday, January 2, 2019

TMB Day 7: La Fouly to Champex






Day Seven
July 23, 2018

Starting point: La Fouly, Switzerland
Ending point: Champex, Switzerland
Distance: 9.9 miles
Height gain: 2192 feet
High point: Champex (4810 feet)
Lunch: Cafe du Chatelet, Issert
Accommodation: Hotel Mont Lac

The guidebook said that this stage was definitely the easiest day of the trek.  Even though there were still many miles to cover, we would not be going over any mountain passes or into any valleys. We were excited for an easy day, but by the middle of it I think that we were both really over how easy (and monotonous) it was. After an initial climb out of the Swiss Val Ferret, we walked along the mountain in the trees, gaining snatches of views of the river and the little Swiss houses to the right. We stopped into a random cave that was not mentioned in the guidebook with some Ukrainian trekkers, one of which really wanted to take a picture with us afterward.  After this little jolt of excitement, it was a mostly flat walk through three quiet Swiss hamlets until we came to a small refuge that was the only thing in operation at the end of Issert, the last of the three hamlets. A simple but hearty country lunch there gave us the energy to trudge up a steep ascent to Champex, a surprisingly idyllic lakeside resort town.  We had no idea how nice it was going to be, it felt a little bit indulgent for a trekking trip!  After ninja-ing the only market in town (like, making it in literally as they were closing), we soaked in those resort amenities and treated ourselves to a bomb lakeview dinner.




Sunday, December 9, 2018

TMB Day 6: Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly








Day Six
July 22, 2018

Starting point: Rifugio Bonatti, Italy
Ending point: La Fouly, Switzerland
Distance: 13 miles
Height gain: 3301 feet
High point: Grand Col Ferret (8323 feet)
Lunch: Rifugio Elena
Accommodation: Maya Joie



Just as we were getting used to saying “Buon giorno” and “Grazie,” we realized that we needed to go back to saying “Bonjour” and “Merci.” Today we were crossing the Italian-Swiss border at the Grand Col Ferret. It was an exciting prospect, but we knew that we’d miss Italy so much. The views and the culinary scene were pretty much unparalleled, in retrospect. We made sure to budget some time to enjoy one last meal in Italy during lunch, though we had quite a long day ahead of us. 

Tuesday, November 27, 2018

TMB Day 5: Courmayeur to Rifugio Bonatti








Day Five
July 21, 2018

Starting point: Courmayeur, Italy
Ending point: Rifugio Bonatti
Distance: 7.9 miles
Height gain: 3691 feet
Lunch: Rifugio Bertone
Accommodation: Rifugio Bonatti



Our rest day in Courmayeur was over, and it was time to hit the trail again.  For that whole day, we did not use the stairs even once - nope, not one downward or upward step was taken in excess.  With pomp and circumstance, we rode the elevator down (at first the door wouldn’t close because apparently our packs were so large that they obstructed the sensor) to start this fourth leg of our trek.  It’s always a little bit hard to get started for the day, whether we’re coming out of a mountain refuge or an actual city, but today it was much harder because we had just had the most indulgent and relaxing time in Italy. On top of that, it looked like it actually was going to rain, so we stuck our umbrellas and rain jackets on the outer pockets of our packs.

Thursday, November 15, 2018

Leaf Peeping & Lake Spotting









Per Wikipedia, "leaf peeping" is an informal term in the United States for the activity in which people travel to view and photograph the fall foliage in areas where leaves change colors in autumn, particularly in northern New England and the upper Midwest.  Well, we were able to do this (and join many other "leaf perverts", as Wes likes to call them) right here in California, just a six-hour drive up our favorite freeway, the 395.  It's really quite amazing - fields of gold are literally hidden in between the mountains, found only if you follow narrow, winding roads into specific destinations.  With the help of Mono County Tourism's website, we knew exactly where to go to gain entrance to the year's most exclusive peepshow.  The leaves turn sexy shades of yellow and orange, the meadows are golden, the lakes sparkle and flash, and we were lucky enough to be treated to a light snowstorm that created a dramatic backdrop to it all.  Depending on a variety of natural factors (i.e. elevation, weather, type of tree), the leaves change quite quickly, so there's only a four-week window to catch these views each year.  Monocounty.org is diligently updated every Wednesday (by some leaf pervert, no doubt) with viewing conditions.  I guess there are a lot of people out there who come to the Eastern Sierra at this time of year just for the Fall colors!





So the true intention of the trip wasn't even to see the changing leaves, even though I do have a huge soft spot for Fall colors.  We actually had a backcountry permit booked for that weekend to through-hike a trail out of Mammoth, but the weather took a huge dip (26 degrees Fahrenheit at night!) and there was snow in the forecast...so, we packed a ton of extra blankets in the car and opted to get a walk-in campsite and do some day-hikes rather than going backpacking.  Snuggling under our heavy down comforter and huddling by the campfire with hearty, fresh food sounded way more ideal.


You really can never go wrong in the Eastern Sierra, ever.  It felt like we had truly experienced the transition from Fall to Winter firsthand!  We did a few good hikes and also ate a ton of good ole American comfort food: tacos, pizza, wings, burgers, ice cream, pasta, sandwiches, ice cream, and pho.  Ice cream was in there twice, not by mistake.  It was another trip for the books, for sure.


Day 1:  Little Lakes Valley to Gem Lakes


Day 2:  Lundy Canyon Trail


Day 3:  Ruby Lake via Morgan Pass

Complete food list: Anthony's Grill in Mojave, Tacos Los Hermanos in Lone Pine, Schat's Bakery in Mammoth, Black Velvet Coffee in Mammoth, Subway in Mammoth, Mono Cone in Lee Vining, Giovanni's in Mammoth, Bishop Burger Barn in Bishop, Good Earth Yogurt in Bishop, our campsite